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Mojet barrels are manufactured from imported stainless steel. Barrels are manufactured through a single cut rifled process which make Accugun a preferred manufacturer in South Africa. With any premium single-cut-rifle barrel that has been finish-lapped, the lay or direction of the finish is in the direction of the bullet travel, and so fouling is minimal compared to a barrel with internal tooling marks. This is true for any properly finish-lapped barrel regardless of how it is rifled. If it is not finish-lapped, there will be reamer marks left in the bore that are directly across the direction of the bullet travel. The goal is to get or keep the barrel clean while breaking in the throat with bullets being fired over it.
MOJET Barrels are manufactured to order; the twist, length (up to 32″) and profile are done to customer


Between a straight taper and a Palma taper barrel of the same weight, it comes down to balance. More of the mass of the Palma taper is toward the shank end which moves the balance back towards the action. That brings the balance of the rifle back closer to the shooter which makes the rifle “feel” better balanced in positional shooting. The key to an accurate firearm is consistency. Getting everything to happen the same way for every shot is key to producing small groupings, and there are a large number of issues to be addressed in achieving an accurate firearm.
For long-range shooting we suggest a heavy and long barrel, the longer the bullet is in the barrel the further and faster it travels. When hunting or short distance shooting a light and short barrel will recommended.


Any premium barrel that has been drilled and reamed will show reamer marks that are directly across the direction in which the bullet travels. It is essential to properly finish the barrel, such as your MOJET barrel.

The direction of the finishing is the same as that of the bullet’s trajectory, therefore fouling is minimal. The function of the break in the procedure is to break in the throat area off the barrel.

When the barrel is chambered, the reamer leaves marks perpendicular to the lands. When the bullet is fired, due to high pressure and temperature the copper dust is vaporized in the gas and carried down the barrel. As the gas expands and cools, the copper comes out of suspension and is deposited into the bore though this might fool one to believe that the barrel is fouling, it is in fact caused by the throat. The copper needs to be removed to prevent build-up. As the throat gets polished, the fouling will be reduced which is also an indication that the barrel is broken in.


You should use a good quality cleaning rod with a freely rotating handle and a bore guide that fits both
your receiver raceway and the rod comfortably. The object is to make sure the rod cannot touch the bore.
Set-up is especially important as all the cleaning must be done from the muzzle. Even slight damage to
the barrel crown is extremely detrimental to accuracy.
A good solvent that can be used is Robla Sola. No abrasive cleaners, and no hard brushes should be
used. White round material should be used. This can be bought at most retailers.

Always clean from the breach if possible. Often damage is done by improper cleaning, more than
shooting the rifle. It is vital to prevent damage to the crown, as this will compromise accuracy. A barrel
with a worn or damaged crown can be re-crowned and accuracy will usually return. Abrasive Cleaners
work well. They do not damage the bore, they clean all types of fouling (copper powder, lead, plastic),
and they have the added advantage of polishing the throat both in “break-in” and later when the throat
begins to roughen from the rounds fired.

There are two basic types of bore cleaners – chemical and abrasive. Chemical cleaners are usually a
blend of various ingredients including oils and ammonia that attack the copper. Abrasive cleaners
generally contain no chemicals and are oil, wax, or grease based with an extremely fine abrasive such as
chalk, clay, or gypsum. They clean by chemically removing the fouling. Both are good, and we feel that
neither will damage the bore when used properly.

A jag with a patch wrapped around it also works well. Apply the cleaner and begin scrubbing in short, fast
strokes of about two to four inches in length. Concentrate most of the strokes in the throat area,
decreasing the number as you go towards the muzzle. Make a few full length passes while avoiding
exiting the muzzle completely but do partially exit for about six strokes. You can avoid accidently exiting
by mounting the rifle in a vice or holder of sorts and blocking the rod at the muzzle with the wall, or
something to keep it from completely exiting.

A recommended starting point would be 3×1 shot cycles, followed by 3×3 shot cycles and 3×5 shot
cycles. Observe when the fouling reduces and shoot as normal. We have found 25 to 30 shots before
accuracy will start to suffer; however, it is best to keep the barrel clean.